if it’s made for macs specifcally, it’s way more expensive; twice, at least. so while it may be usable on non-apple hardware, that’s not a good value proposition.
you should look into DIY-ing it. TB4 circuitry from Aliexpress and friends is in the sub-$100 range and all you need then is a semi-decent PSU and the GPU of your choice. they are way cheaper if you can utilise M.2 interfaces, like $50ish.
keep your data turned off. you load the tablet with books or whatevers, you don’t need no comms, hence nothing can leak.
second, you should get the device based on LineageOS support, so check their devices page first. there’s but a handful of those, I was lucky to find a Tab S6 Lite for cheap and it’s hella supported. if you have money to burn then look into Pixel tablets and such.
finally, when you eventually flash them, the battery life isn’t great. even just having them lying around not doing anything in standby requires you to connect it to power every other day or so. had an iPad like 10 years prior, that thing could be left for weeks and still be available when you need it. sadly, no such thing exists here.
p.s.: not what you asked for, but take a look at old 2-in-1 tablets in the vein of Dell Latitude 5285/5290/7290 etc. those are fully featured i5/i7 machines, tons of RAM, expandable storage, you can install Linux on them with all the benefits and drawbacks that brings; battery longevity also ain’t a thing here, but at least you can tweak everything (limit frequencies, hibernate, etc.)
it’s the usual lime-based paint with god knows how many layers underneath.
thanks a bunch. I’ve made a separate post, here it is: https://lemmy.ml/post/24996046
well, no, as it’s sticky and will stick to the vacuum’s pipe and innards and whatnot. same goes for wiping (sticks to the rag) etc.
I have these. had a fire some while ago (cheap-ass kettle incinerated itself and other plastic in its vicinity) and now my walls and ceiling are covered with sticky soot.
the professional removal isn’t in the cards right now, so I wanted to paint over the thing (dirt and soot and all) thus trapping this crap. I don’t care how it looks afterwards, as it’s bound to be better than the present state of things, just that all this crap isn’t airborne.
ideas, suggestions?
edit: made a post, appreciate if you can help: https://lemmy.ml/post/24996046
maybe reword the title, as this will inevitably lead to partisan turf wars in the vein of my-distro-can-beat-up-yalls-distro and such.
as to your thesis, yes, mint and ubuntu are important and needed as beginner-friendly it-just-works solutions that have things in place (like the mentioned driver manager) that are sorely needed for noobs. once they learn what’s what they are free to wander farther, as there’s essentially zero switching costs.
you’ll find low sympathy from experienced users as they can’t relate to people who are so much below their expertise level. case in point, a buncha people already mentioning package managers, ignoring the idea that a noob doesn’t know what that is.
no help to you, but a heads-up to anybody yet to deploy disks in such a scenario: always use encryption by way of LUKS2. you can set it up easily to unlock it on boot by a key file on the boot drive, thumb drive, TPM and such. so when a drive gets sold, RMA’d, etc., you got none of these issues.
source: sold my old drives recently and the shred procedure took ages. the new ones are encrypted so none of that shit no more.
calling the phone company and faxing them paperwork
doing WHAT the fuck now?!?
on a more serious note, can you elaborate on the thing where you, a call receiver, have access to the GPS on the caller’s phone? like, how? asked and answered, still don’t understand how that happens.
can’t help with the switch but if your monitor has multiple inputs, you can use ddcutil to switch between inputs. so for me it’s:
ddcutil -g PHL setvcp 60 0x0f # DP1
ddcutil -g PHL setvcp 60 0x10 # DP2
ddcutil -g PHL setvcp 60 0x11 # HDMI1
ddcutil -g PHL setvcp 60 0x12 # HDMI2
then you can use udev rules or external triggers to switch, e.g. KDE connect’s “Run Command” etc.
for uploading, absolutely use syncthing. you can set it up so that it works in only one direction, i.e. phone to server, so any file that appears on the phone’s download folder gets sent to the server. the one you want is syncthing-fork on fdroid.
as to listening to the music via youtube check out innertune, also on fdroid.
how is it in DE can you buy it P2P, for cash, anonymous? or the same KYC bullshit with comissions for everything and their uncle?
sure, thanks for helping out. got now a cheap hack for lighting my abode, commercial solutions are like 6-8x the price. the CRI is crap but it’s better than nothing.
these gbhackers submissions have superoverblown click-baity titles. I am now aware of them and it takes but a few of these to put these clowns on a cried-wolf list. hopefully lemmy will have some ignore domain thingy and add this to the likes of sun, nypost et al., never to be seen again and/or taken seriously.
well, I sorted it. just like @fuzzy_feeling@programming.dev and others guessed, that was the correct spot to get the power from. the issue with the fluctuating voltage was due to my shitty multimeter, checked it with another one and boom, 12 V. well, no boom, that’s just an expression.
that’s a solid line, I’m gonna try that. hopefully won’t burn nothing of value. thanks
they are. and the voltage is fluctuating (for the fade in/out light effect) when measured there. so I need to find the fucker that’s doing that and bypass it.
the whole thing (5 meter strip, remote, PSU/controller) cost like $5 total so I’m guessing that’s some ingenuity at play, like reusing strips meant for RGB lights and sumsuch
measuring difference between ground plane and the various points didn’t give me a stable voltage. the black thingy leading to the 12 V line is a SS210 (search says that’s a schottky diode) and on its output the mentioned fluctuation is happening. on its input there’s some very low voltage happening that’s also fluctuating, like sub 1V (got a shitty multimeter).
if I’m understanding this correctly, then this thing boosts the voltage but the fluctuation is happening somewhere else. in other words, there is no 12 V source on this board. or?
they are white LEDs i.e. they shine white. the R G B leads are used to trigger them individually, for the running lights and whatnot. so when I bring 12 V to the V lead and GND to e.g. R, all the LEDs marked R (image) light up. when I then short R with G, then all R and G light up, etc.
there’s dosdude1 soldering away on NAND chips; this should be a walk in the park even for a hobbyist.
as to macgyvering, the S in USB is for “serial” and such a connection needs very few wires, three if I’m not mistaken. so an absent USB connector could be fixed temporarily with clips and wires and such.