Well, regardless, the spec only cares about devices drawing more current than the host can supply, and that has always been consistent. Electricity doesn’t really work in a way the host can “push” current, the only way it could do that would be with a higher voltage, which would damage anything not designed for it. But that’s what the USB-PD spec is for, negotiating what voltage to supply, up to 48V now.
A USB host providing more current than the device supports isn’t an issue though. A USB device simply won’t draw more than it needs. There’s no danger of dumping 5A into your 20 year old mouse because it defaults to a low power 100mA device. Even if the port can supply 10A / 5V or something silly, the current is limited by the voltage and load (the mouse).
I guess that makes sense it’d happen more in big buildings. The runs in most houses wouldn’t be long enough to have a noticeable induced current without the electrician adding a few extra loops for fun :)
Thanks for humoring my skepticism, it’s been interesting to think about how this would happen.
The default standard power limit is still the same as it ever was on each USB version. There’s negotiation that needs to happen to tell the device how much power is allowed, and if you go over, I think over current protection is part of the USB spec for safety reasons. There’s a bunch of different protocols, but USB always starts at 5V, and 0.1A for USB 2.0, and devices need to negotiate for more. (0.15A I think for USB 3.0 which has more conductors)
As an example, USB 2.0 can signal a charging port (5V / 1.5A max) by putting a 200 ohm resistor across the data pins.
Thank god for his work on UTF-8 otherwise linux might be stuck with wchars like Windows >_>
Well, I can’t say I’ve ever seen it happen, but I could see how it could happen in certain scenarios, especially if the LED has some weird driver in it.
Maybe the capacitors in the driver would be allowed to charge up in some designs before getting dissipated through the LED in a flash?
The simplest form of LED light (just a rectifier and a bunch of LEDs in series for a 120V diode drop), idk if you’d ever see any glow or flashes, since LEDs don’t turn on until a certain voltage, and if you’re getting like 50V on an open circuit that seems to me like you’ve accidentally built a transformer in your walls.
I think the random review site I looked at had some wrong data, a different one comfirms there’s no manual exposure. If OP could get your hands on one to try before buying, that’d be ideal, but might be unlikely to find in a local shop considering the age of these models.
I definitely agree, RAW seems like the most useful upgrade out of the things listed (with full manual focus being a bonus)
I think your house might be wired wrong if this is happening… The only thing I can think of is maybe if you’ve got some smart switch and no neutral, so the wifi in the switch has to power itself by leaking current through the light, which is a pretty unusual setup. I don’t see how this could ever happen on a regular dumb switch.
If it’s an LED or flourencent bulb they usually have a small amount of glow after turning them off from the phosphor coating. You might be able to catch that instead of the residual heat, but generally it dissipates pretty quickly, and it might be hard to see with one of the other lights on.
Trying to get a switch stuck half way sounds like a good way to start a fire. If the bulb is dimmed, that means not all the power is making it to the bulb, and half of it is probably going into heating up the switch contacts. It could also be arcing inside the switch, which will also destroy the contacts. I think some new building codes require “arc fault protection” on circuits for this type of reason, in addition to “ground fault protection” (GFCI) on bathroom/kitchen circuits.
From what I can see, the TG-4 has manual exposure. I don’t know why it wouldn’t… even my phone has it, and TG-4 is the newer camera.
I think the biggest difference will be the RAW output. I’ve found it useful to be able to go in after and fix white balance or slightly shift the exposure, which you can’t do with the JPEGs.
The autofocus on both seems to have plenty of options for picking what to focus on. I’ve got a full manual mode on my camera, but I often just use the point tracking autofocus to pick out what I want in focus.
The latency is way better than you’d expect, but still noticeably worse than local. I think if you’ve got a decent connection and Nvidia has a server nearby it’s about the same as 1 extra frame of lag (or playing on a TV without game mode…)
The tarball is less than 2MB. You can download it here: http://squoze.net/UNIX/v4/README
The Internet Archive is also hosting a torrent (and mirrors) of the full 2.7GB analog capture of the tape: https://archive.org/details/utah_unix_v4_raw
I’m actually slightly impressed it got both a working program, and a different one than Wikipedia. The Wikipedia one prints “Hello, world.”
I guess there must be another program floating around the web with “Hello World!”, since there’s no chance the LLM figured it out on its own (it kinda requires specialized algorithms to do anything)
That was one of my first impressions too. I’m a long time linux user when it comes to servers and CLI, but I have been using a Windows PC for years as my main desktop. I finally installed linux on my desktop again and I did a literal double-take when double clicking folders to open them in Dolphin. It finishes loading before I even release the mouse button. I thought it was opening on a single click, but it’s just that fast and I got used to a few 100ms delay on Windows Explorer.
Malbolge is a fun one
Edit: Funny enough, ChatGPT fails to get this right, even with the answer right there on Wikipedia. When I tried running ChatGPT’s output the first few characters were correct but it errors with invalid char at 37
Every soldering iron I’ve ever used has been a desktop station that plugs into the wall.
Apparently portable soldering irons in general are quite a new concept (1984): https://portasol.com/about-us
I mean, you solder pipes with a flame, why not circuit boards too?
By the looks of it you’ve got enough time to be commenting about not watching the video. I’d question wether you actually have better things to do.
I think to a lot of people “political” means specifically picking sides between Republican/Democrat unfortunately, not talking about actual policy. That seems to be how they were using it here, considering they tried defending the claim by saying they’ve worked with Trump’s organization in the past.
I definitely agree though, people have every reason to get political (your version) these days, and it’s generally justified.