Title says it all. A sixer costs 12-15 dollars these days. I just brewed 5 gallons for under $30.

I’ve been doing this shit for decades. If you’re curious how to get into it (hint: it’s easy) I can point you in the right direction.

  • frogbellyratbone_ [e/em/eir, any]@hexbear.netBanned
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    1 month ago

    just piggy backing off your post: a cheap bottle of apple juice + yeast is easy (and cheap) hard apple cider. literally just get bread yeast and apple juice and let it ferment for a week or so. it’ll be funky, but this is the “first time get your feet wet just try it out keep it simple” recipe.

    once you get the hang of it you can do other shit: add sugar, yeast nutrition, proper apple cide yeast, wine yeast, better quality apple juice, post-yeast fermentation, aged cider, apple wine, etc.

    ~1 gallon of apple wine is ~$3.50 whereas if I bought a gallon of apple wine it’d be 25-35.00$.

    • Dull_Juice [he/him]@hexbear.net
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      1 month ago

      Since its fall I usually just pick up the pressed cider from the orchards. Obviously not available year round, but that makes a good hard cider for me with minimal effort. I’m not huge into cider, so I keep it simple.

  • Alaskaball [comrade/them, any]@hexbear.net
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    1 month ago

    My mead didn’t turn out too good. I probably should actually not be lazy and follow instructions next time by transferring it to a second container to help the yeast further settle before bottling it. And also I should probably bottle it in actual wine bottles instead of beer growlers

  • SchillMenaker [he/him]@hexbear.net
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    1 month ago

    I have to say, I was a little worried that a fuckton would be more than the 15 gallon electric setup I built years ago but my ego remains intact

    • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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      1 month ago

      I use a 5 gallon bucket and a bottle of StarSan. My whole rig and cleaning equipment could fit in a coat closet.

      That being said, I’m pretty loose with sanitation and have never had an issue.

        • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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          1 month ago

          So check it. The only item I ever really star san is my siphon. My fermenters are food grade plastic. I put the wort/beer in there at 140F, then rest until room temp when I add yeast. So that’s one less item to sanitize. I clean out the kegs with PBW, rinse, and fill with CO2. In my mind, no need to sanitize. Those are the three items I would argue must be clear of microbes/yuckies.

          So yeah, I sanitize my siphon. That’s it.

          Once a quarter I flush my beer lines in my kegerator. So I guess that sort of counts.

  • mickey [he/him]@hexbear.net
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    1 month ago

    This was posted one two hours ago, have you consumed more than a quart half gallon since then and if not why not?

    I would be interested in home brew, and I’m comfortable following sterile techniques, although bottling and keeping bottles on hand seems like a hassle. Without asking you to talk me through the process, would you share some links you think are good starting places?

    • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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      1 month ago

      Three pints deep. Life’s beautiful as I reflect upon the revolutionary optimism dancing through my mind.

      For beer brewing, BIAB. Ten gallon pot and a mesh bag, and heat.

      If you have the space, kegging is the way to go and cheaper in the long run compared to bottling. But an additional refrigerator is usually necessary.

      Most equipment can be sourced secondhand. Go for an Anvil or Clawhammer if you can source either off Marketplace. I scored a Clawhammer for $350 some years ago. By far the best purchase I’ve ever made in this hobby.

          • SchillMenaker [he/him]@hexbear.net
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            1 month ago

            I saw the post below that it’s a cream ale with Kveik yeast, that’s basically a guaranteed B+, I approve.

            For the people asking about brewing, probably don’t try and make super hoppy beers or a Budweiser clone, do what Dick Fuckarelli did. Or maybe make an English dark mild or Bavarian hefeweizen, they’re all super easy and good. Also don’t start off shooting for malt liquor, there’s nothing better than crushing multiple liters of 4% beer and your early attempts at high abv are probably going to suck.

            • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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              1 month ago

              Couldn’t agree more. English ales are the best way to cut your teeth. Then SMASHs if you want to go IPA, or Belgium Singles or Doubles if you want to go malt forward.

              • SchillMenaker [he/him]@hexbear.net
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                1 month ago

                I’ve made so much of Jamil’s English dark mild at like 3.8% and it’s ludicrously good and crazy cheap to make. The closest thing I’ve found that is similar is Cigar City Maduro but that’s got significantly more alcohol and it’s still $10 for a sixer on sale.

                People usually let Belgians get a little out of hand because they saw on Reddit that you can just dump a bunch of extra sugar in there and let it rip at 90° and it’ll be fine. I love saison as another starter style though and it’s probably one of the most proletarian types of beer so it’s the perfect complement to leftist cosplay.

                • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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                  1 month ago

                  My cream ale I made up myself (which is like saying I invented stick figures).

                  8.5 lbs 2 row, 1.5lbs corn flakes (Aldi big box for the proletariat win), 2oz Special B

                  1oz Fuggles @ 60min

                  Kveik Omega Lutra (dry)

                  Filtered water (just an RV filter on a garden hose)

                  Mash temp 152F

                  Yield: 5.5 gallons; 5 gallons in the keg.

                  chefs-kiss

      • Dull_Juice [he/him]@hexbear.net
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        1 month ago

        How do you like Kveik? I did a couple beers with it and thought it was fine, but never really ferment at the hot temps folks were saying it’s really neat at. Mostly back to a dry yeast of whatever is appropriate for the style now.

        • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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          1 month ago

          At low temps (basically room temp) it’s (to me) between an s-04 and s-05. Some yeast flavor but fairly clean. At high temps, it gives off a citrus affect that you normally would attribute to hops. And higher temps give off a lager-like feel in most instances.

          I see it as it’s own thing.

          • Dull_Juice [he/him]@hexbear.net
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            1 month ago

            Makes sense, was mostly curious since for me the only real window for me to even think about using it is in the summer to hit that high ferment temp.

            Right now I’m not brewing as much anymore as I’ve cut back a lot on how much I drink and I try to give it away when I can. Half the fun is sharing it with folks for me. So I struggle to find recipes I want to include it in. I’ve been trying to fine tune my recipes right now more than anything.

              • Dull_Juice [he/him]@hexbear.net
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                1 month ago

                I’ll have to put it back in the rotation next summer and give it another go. Might be nice to pitch immediately and not worry about it. In the summer my wort chiller + normal tap water doesn’t quite get me to pitch temps immediately.

  • Carl [he/him]@hexbear.net
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    1 month ago

    hell yeah

    do you mind me asking how much it costs to get started? any guides you recommend?

    I have a bunch of 5 gal buckets In not using…

    • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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      1 month ago

      OK. Bare minimum for brewing:

      10 gal stainless steel pot

      Mesh bag

      Look up The Bru Sho on YT. Dude will walk you through basics. However I suggest getting an all in one system like an Anvil.

      For fermenting I suggest 6.5 gal buckets. Or, using corny kegs as a fermenter has been very popular lately.

      Everything can be had second hand. Sometimes free

    • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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      1 month ago

      Oh. I see you asked for price:

      I bought my brew system for $3-400ish dollars used off of Marketplace. I got a used kegerator 2 years ago for $100.

      And everything else i picked up along the way over 20+ years. A lot of it was free.

    • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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      1 month ago

      Large stainless steel pot (10 gal), mesh bag, heat source that can bring 7 gallons of water up to boil. For fermentation: plastic carboys/buckets. Then either bottles (growers or regular beer bottles) or a corny keg.

      Nothing expensive. Most of it can be sourced second hand. Sometimes free.

  • CPMSP@midwest.social
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    1 month ago

    Kickass!

    It sounds like you did a cream with kveik yeast, sounds great - what’s your favorite style?

    For my first batch I did a kolsch as that was my favorite style at the time. What was your first batch?

    • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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      1 month ago

      Favorite style? Gun to my head, English Nut Brown or Irish Stout. How about you?

      My first brew? i think I recall doing a pale ale from an extract kit. Which isn’t a bad way to go (extract kits) except there’s no money to be saved. Might as well just go buy commercial beer at that point .

  • snot [they/them]@hexbear.net
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    1 month ago

    dumb question but - are you able to make it taste as good as/better than commercially available beer? my dad used to homebrew cider and it was pretty gross tbh.

    • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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      1 month ago

      Its a lager so it will require a certain temperature profile during fermentation. Not particularly hard but 4-8 weeks of the fermenters sitting at 60ish degrees.

      I would recommend finding an ale equivalent to try and mimic first.

    • CPMSP@midwest.social
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      1 month ago

      It’s all pretty easy to do right.

      It’s doing it well that takes a lot of practice.

  • Super_Lumalo [he/him]@hexbear.net
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    1 month ago

    What do you think of dark beers? Like stouts, and porters. Because oh my god I want to try making some, seeing how a bottle of Komes costs regularly over 12zł. It’s good, real good. I definitely won’t start with it since I don’t know shit, but still it would probably be a goal.

    • DickFuckarelli [he/him]@hexbear.netOP
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      1 month ago

      I find porters to be more complex from a brewing perspective, vs stouts. I’d argue stouts are actually on the easier side, in general. If I were to just be getting into brewing, I’d start with an English brown. The jump to having the skill to make a stout from browns/milds/etc is fairly small.